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spar urethane sealer

You can certainly flood the surface and then wipe off the excess, but I personally like to wipe it on with a folded rag. Painters use this gel stain on new homes. So a solution might be to simply lightly sand the surface and then hit it with another thicker coat. I stained it ebony (which is odd and possibly stupid for a white wood), and I’m going to be varnishing it soon. But to reiterate, no real reason you can’t use the stuff inside. They are quite scratched up. is this why she told me to use the outdoor? So I probably wouldn’t stain the back of the baseboard (just the front), but I would apply a light coat of your spar urethane on the back side. "Container Size_1 Gallon": 74 The questions I have for you relate to the initial finishing and temperature control during finishing process. In a prior post I don’t believe you said anything about wiping off the first coat. Some may recommend even more, but personally, I don’t like real thick finishes. It was showing some flaking and wear, so I lightly sanded with 180 grit, followed by 220 grit sandpaper to smooth things out. I would like to try your wipe on method, but I had a few questions about your technique. Helmsman Spar Urethane is TERRIBLE! HELP!!!! We plan to use Epifanes varnish as well. I dont have friends that have this skill.As far as classes, I have looked but can not find any near Cincinnati,Ohio. And Ron, Spar Urethane is intended for outdoor use and contains a higher amount of solids. Problems, meaning cracks, buckling, and warping. "usage": "Defining", General Finishes Exterior 450 would be the product I would try. "usage": "Defining", :) To address your questions, you can absolutely sand exterior poly. I know you recommend Epifanes. I was planning on chemically stripping it to get back to bare wood but I’m concerned I won’t be able to get all the Varathane out of the knots and crevasses. "usage": "Defining", Hey! Pretty much all oil-based varnishes are compatible. Are you familiar with their “Rapid Clear” version? Using space heater, and waiting ‘a lot’, 24 hrs. Looks great! How to fold a bed pillow in half and a rug? Some areas are noticeable “dry” looking with brush strokes long after it dries. After the first rain I ended up with the top shelf getting cloudy but the others shelves not getting cloudy. If you like the results, give it a shot. If you ask, they usually give a 20% discount. Just make sure the finish is drying completely between coats. Thanx! "ItemImage467": "//sherwin.scene7.com/is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=92%2c0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0%2c0.0%2c0%2c0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/710510000-minwax-helmsman-waterbased-spar-urethane-clear-semi-gloss-1G", I can’t spend much more time then this for this job. Fix an adjustable floor to ceiling cat tree to vaulted ceiling? This is a great thread as I need to do my door tomorrow. }, { After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. If I where to whip on my last coat what type of rag would you recommend? "partNumber": "650183130", "unitID": "", Get rid of the offending material and then switch to the product you really want to use. I’d scrub the surface with mineral spirits first then follow up with a light sanding. It is important to get as much of that finish off the surface as possible for not only appearance, but bonding. I really like your site and wish I had found this before “tearing into” a coffee table I did last summer. An interior water-based poly will repel water just fine and is actually a harder finish. Please advise what to use to condition New exterior mahogany door with prior to staining. I am presently in the process of refinishing my kitchen cubards and they have very old varnish finish on them. It’s just a little softer and contains UV inhibitors, things you generally don’t need on indoor trim work. What is your #1 and #2 recommendations…in case I can’t get #1 locally? Took a little longer to work but it still worked, and I didn’t have that nasty methylene chloride stuff in the shop. "storeDisplay": false, Shouldn’t be necessary in this case, but better safe than sorry. Is this because I am only on layer 2 or am I doing something wrong? Hey Gus. It’s probably doable, but why not look into the products that are intended to be used that way, such as the bar top epoxies? "partNumber": "650183148", I have been reading a lot and planning to use some General Finish Gel Stain on the whole door and sidelights. In fact I very much prefer water based Poly now for most common things. Is there a method to do this with GF 450? I just purchased a torrefied fir exterior door for my house. I do the same process every time – half the piece will be fine and the other half full of brush strokes. "15776": "Satisfaction Guaranteed", I would at least start by thinning 50% with naptha and see how it goes. So you might try applying a thicker coat by wiping and seeing if that improves things. We also have a storm door, so the door is not completely out in nature. They spray the door and when it dries there are horizontal areas spanning the width of the door that looks like not enough varnish was applied to those areas? Its an aerosol can full of inert gas that creates an oxygen-free pillow on top of your finish, protecting it from oxidation. Otherwise, you are probably better off getting the oil-based stuff. "ItemImage": "//sherwin.scene7.com/is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=92%2c0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0%2c0.0%2c0%2c0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/710510000-minwax-helmsman-waterbased-spar-urethane-clear-semi-gloss-1G", Nice site – has proven very useful, and I might be tempted to take your advice about the rag. I have been searching for the best way to re-finish my exterior door. Which topcoat do you think will hold up better? How do I fix an uneven sanding and bleaching result on pine?? I recently a lightly weathered bench and sprayed it with spar urethane. "ItemThumbnailImage": "//sherwin.scene7.com/is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=92%2c0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0%2c0.0%2c0%2c0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/630510444-minwax-helmsman-waterbased-spar-urethane-clear-semi-gloss-1Q", Problem is that nail holes were filled with putty that initially matched but turned white as it dried, so now every nail hole is extra obvious, as is the putty that smudged into wood around each hole. John. "sequence": "20.00000", With a cover though, you probably won’t need to worry about it more than once every few years. Minwax is clearly the biggest name in finishing out there, and its unfortunate. On interior poly, my pros sprayed on 2 coats and then lightly sanded (I think 600+ grit), and it left a beautiful smooth finish. Yup, it’s a good idea to sand each coat a bit to smooth it out. }, I will use the rag method because I’ve had good results in the past.

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